Chinatown is a 36-acre jumble of open-air markets, shops, galleries, restaurants and bars, with just enough fringe activity to make it deliciously intriguing. The area, on the edge of Honolulu's financial district, is bordered by King, Smith, Beretania and River streets.

At the hub of Hawaii's arts and entertainment community, Chinatown is home to some 30 galleries, the Hawaii Theatre Center, a beautifully renovated 1922 performing-arts jewel, the nearby Hawaii State Art Museum, as well as coffee houses, bars, restaurants and live music.

Chinatown rocks any night of the week but it goes off the charts on the first Friday of each month. "First Friday" brings crowds to chat with artists and catch free entertainment. Bars and restaurants fill up fast and visitors mingle with locals in a multi-ethnic cultural hubbub.

The Hawaii Theatre Center, 1130 Bethel St., features an active schedule of eclectic performances ranging from stage shows to dance and musical concerts, many with a Hawaiian connection. The theater reopened in 1996, 10 years after a nonprofit corporation was formed to save it from demolition. The 1,400-seat theater has been recognized by major historic preservation groups for its renovation efforts. Tours are conducted Tuesdays at 11 a.m. For more information, call 528-0506.

Well-known Chinatown gallery and coffeehouse stops include the ARTS at Marks Garage where art shares space with jazz and dance concerts, comedy improvisation and poetry. The Ramsay Museum may be an interesting stop if only to trace the history of Chinatown's arts and culture renaissance. Artist Ramsay is widely acknowledged as the force behind the revival.