To early Hawaiians, surfing was more than catching and riding waves. It was the center of social and ritual activities that began with the selection of the tree from which the board would be carved and progressed to legendary surfing contests for the alii (chiefs). In religion, in language, in story and song, surfing was a significant part of the rich tapestry of life in Hawaii.
Today's surfers are no less enchanted by the sport. When the surf's up, all else pales in significance. Surfing captures one's body and soul through the very power and fury of the ocean, and it never lets you go.
Waikiki, with reliable waves almost all year round, is a good choice for the beginner. Waikiki's "beach boys" rose to fame in the 1930s when they took charge of the beach, the waves, and the fun. Beach boys, who are required to be licensed lifeguards, still give lessons.
Makaha, on the island's northwest coast, is famous for its raging winter surf and towering waves. North of Makaha is Yokohama Bay where the waves meet a rocky shelf and exposed reef. The "Seven Mile Miracle," which stretches from Haleiwa to Sunset Beach on Oahu's North Shore, contains many of the major surf spots on this big wave coast, including Rocky Point, Banzai Pipeline, Ehukai, Waimea Bay, Chun's Reef, Laniakea, and Sunset Beach.
Surfing pros, male and female, offer lessons throughout the island.
