There is a place called Moku'ula. For 300 years it was the spiritual and political center of the Hawaiian kingdom. Its reign ended in 1845 when the capital of Hawaii was moved from Lahaina to Honolulu. After years of neglect, Moku'ula and the remains of its royal palace and mausoleum were buried in 1914 under a county park in Lahaina. Today the site is slowly being restored thanks to the dedication of a non-profit organization of a group called Friends of Moku'ula and a Lahaina cultural tourism company called Maui Nei.

Maui Nei tour guides are adept at telling the story of this ancient site. It is part of a walking tour through Lahaina that spans 1,700 years of Hawaiian history and is told in the mo'olelo (stories) and oli (chants) of Hawaiian tradition. Guides are trained by Akoni Akana, the cultural expert and kumu hula who heads the restoration efforts. For tour information, call 661-9494.