Hilo's port is protected by a long rock seawall about 3 mi/5 km east of downtown. The old downtown area is clustered near the mouth of the Wailuku River at Hilo Bay. Other commercial and residential areas extend east and south of town and in the western slopes above downtown.

The rocky Hamakua coast to the northwest of Hilo is considered one of the island's most enjoyable drives, but the shoreline is not good for swimming. The Puna district, south and east of Hilo town, is an area of open rolling lava lands, rugged coasts and rain-forest slopes stretching up to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

History
Hilo was established along the banks of the Wailuku River as a missionary outpost in the 1840s. It became an important port town for trading ships. Over the years, the town expanded and spread to the area behind the sweeping bayfront and the black-sand beach of Hilo Bay. As the sugar industry grew and developed, Hilo became the commercial and governmental center for Hawaii Island.

The Hamakua coast between Hilo and Honokaa to the northwest was the heart of the Big Island's sugar industry until it collapsed in the 1990s. During the industry's heyday (the late 1800s-1970s), sugar was the Big Island's economic mainstay. Now the fields once green with sugarcane have been transformed by a diversified agricultural economy based on macadamia nuts, ginger, papaya, bananas, tropical flowers and other crops.

Hilo is the center for the island's tropical-flower industry, with anthuriums (heart-shaped multicolored blooms) and orchids shipped to worldwide markets.

Still a Humble Plantation Town
The largest city on the island of Hawaii and the second largest in the state, Hilo is a must-see, daylong visit for garden enthusiasts and probably a half-day trip for everyone else. Hilo is also a perfect base for visiting what residents simply refer to as The Volcano. Only 30 mi/48 km south of town along Highway 11, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is the home of the active Kilauea Volcano.

Keep in mind that it rains 280 days a year in Hilo (125 in/320 cm annually), but the rains don't last long. They're usually just passing showers, and the abundant tropical rainfall is what makes the Hilo side of the Big Island so lush and green.

Of all the places we've visited in Hawaii, Hilo seems the least changed by the business of tourism. What is most striking about this multicultural, diverse city is how normal life appears. You'll see Japanese grandmothers tending anthuriums and orchids in their yards, Hawaiian fathers teaching the keiki (children) how to catch crabs in the harbor and folks of all ethnic backgrounds buying, selling and trading produce or fresh fish at Hilo Farmers Market. This is a community of friendly, laid-back people who are very family-oriented.

Much of downtown Hilo consists of vintage buildings, many dating from the early 1900s. A stroll through downtown uncovers a collection of retail shops, offices, flower and fruit stalls. To some, Hilo is frozen in the early 20th century.

To get a better sense of the community's history, pick up a free map of the self-guided walking tour of downtown Hilo from the Big Island Visitors Bureau (250 Keawe St.) or from Lyman Museum (276 Haili St.). Seventeen historic buildings are marked and described, many of which were built in the late 1800s and early 1900s. And be sure to visit at least one of the botanical gardens in the area: They are beautiful and well worth your time.

Outside of the downtown area to the east is Banyan Drive, or "Hotel Row," as it's locally known. The town's major lodgings are arranged between Hilo Bay and this lovely drive lined by giant banyan trees. Take a stroll along Banyan Drive and note the sign markers on the stately trees. All were planted 40 to 60 years ago by VIPs and celebrities such as U.S. President Franklin Roosevelt, baseball legend Babe Ruth and American aviator Amelia Earhart.

A must-see on any visit to Hilo is Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The park includes the Jaggar Observatory, hiking trails, Halemaumau Crater, Bird Park and plenty of activities.
• More about Volcanoes National Park

Be sure to plan a morning trip to admire the rainbows that give Rainbow Falls its name. From Highway 19, go west on Waianuenue Avenue about 1.5 mi/2.5 km and follow the signs.

If you're driving above Hilo on Waianuenue, turn right at the fork in the road and continue to the lookout to see Boiling Pots, a stretch of the Wailuku River where the water eddies and swirls in natural whirlpools. (Resist the temptation to swim in the river, because the strong currents and hidden rocks and ledges make it very dangerous.) About 5 mi/8 km farther, off Saddle Road, are the Kaumana Caves — their lava tubes formed during the 1881 eruption of Mauna Loa. (If you want to explore the tubes, take a flashlight.)
• More Big Island attractions

Dining
You can dine on upscale hotel fare or local plate lunches, on a multicourse meal featuring the fusion of Hawaii's many ethnic cuisines or a simple bowl of saimin noodles. Whatever your choice, the local fare is always a delicious adventure.
• Dining ideas

Weather
Hilo gets up to 125 in/320 cm of rainfall each year — even summer days are seldom dry. Rainfall is equally distributed throughout the year, although the winter months (November-March) can become more rainy and damp. The temperatures are consistent year-round, with highs in the low 80s F/mid-20s C and lows in the 60s F/mid teens C. Hawaiians often do without umbrellas (a light rain shower is called "a Hawaiian blessing"), but you might want to take along a small umbrella or hooded jacket just in case. If you plan to explore the higher altitudes of Mauna Kea or Volcanoes National Park, be sure to take a jacket or at least a very heavy sweater.

Provided by Northstar Media