Located a short 13 miles north of Hilo on Highway 19, the 420-foot 'Akaka Falls is one of the Big Island's most famous natural attractions. Much less famous, but just as worthwhile for sightseers, is a small town often overlooked on the way to the falls.

Originally built to service the once-booming sugar industry on this coast, modern Honomu retains much of the charm of a turn-of-the-century plantation town. There are wooden boardwalks and railings perfect for tying off a horse; false front buildings and residents idling away their day on shop stoops.

You'll also find a treasure trove for antique hunters and art lovers. Take a walk down the two or so blocks that make up the town proper and you'll find arts and crafts from as far away as New Guinea (Panua Collection, 808-963-5421) and as close as Honomu's own outlying districts (Woodshop Gallery & Café, 808-963-6363; Honomu Plantation Gallery, 808-963-5022)

While each of the town's half-dozen galleries, art and antique shops offer some great deals on one-of-a-kind arts and crafts, one of the best for browsing is Glass from the Past (808-963-6440). In keeping with Honomu's slightly less than Puritan work ethic, the sign in the shop window announces, "We are open as often as possible and closed only when necessary" (roughly translated: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday). The shop, which features everything from antique glass bottles found in the region to vintage clothing and miscellaneous knick knacks, is well worth the trip on its own.

Though a small town, it offers some good dining options. Akaka Noodle (808-963-6701) has been owned and operated by the same family since the 1930s, and offers local-style food (with sandwich buns made fresh daily), shave ice (a tropical treat if ever there was one) and more. Also try Pizza Hawaii (808-963-5252) for hand-tossed, gourmet pizza and sandwiches, or, for supplies on the way to 'Akaka Falls, Janis Store (808-963-6062) or Mr. Edis Bakery & General Store (808-963-5000).

To get to Honomu, take Highway 19 (a.k.a. the Hamakua Highway) north out of Hilo; when you come to Highway 220, turn left at the signs pointing to 'Akaka Falls. Drive for another three minutes and ... don't blink or you'll miss it

Stu Dawrs