Ancient Hawaiian Refuge

There was a time when no Big Island escape could have been more compelling than a trip to Pu'uhonua o Honaunau. This ancient place of refuge was the destination of people running for their lives, seeking asylum from severe penalties imposed on all who broke the imposing kapu laws. Once inside the compound's 10-foot walls, sanctuary was guaranteed. The resident kahuna, or priests, were obligated, under the pain of death, to offer absolution to all fugitives no matter how great or small the infraction. Forgiven, they were then allowed to return home and resume normal lives.

Refuges like Pu'uhonua o Honaunau ceased functioning in the early 19th century when the kapu (taboo) system was abolished, but this 182-acre site remains sufficiently in tact to provide a convincing glimpse into a time when people could be sentenced to death merely for eating with their husband or wife or walking in the shadow of a chief. Now a national historical park, Pu'uhonua, has been reconstructed by local artisans using traditional tools. All the other refuges in Hawaii have eroded into stonewall remnants.

Pu'uhonua is one of the best places in the state to get in touch with Hawaii's ancient culture. A major feature of the complex is a reconstructed temple. This oft photographed temple called Hale o Keawe, is guarded by fierce wood-carved statutes called Ki'i. The original temple, built around 1650 and long ago destroyed, housed the bones of at least 23 chiefs. It was believed that the mana in the bones of the dead chiefs gave additional protection to those who came to the place of refuge. As you leave the palace grounds you approach the Great Wall. This huge rock wall, built sometime in the 1500s, is constructed of dry masonry and fit together like a jig saw puzzle.

Pu'uhonua o Honaunau is open 6 am to 11 pm on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, and from 6 am to 8 pm Monday through Thursday. To get there, drive south from Kailua-Kona on Hwy. 11. Turn towards the ocean on Route 160 at the Honaunau Post Office and watch for the park sign.

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